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Author Topic: DIY battery replacement in display and/or gateway
flybeech
Newbie
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Posts: 5


« on: December 09, 2011, 09:44:37 PM »

Not long after I got my TED 5000, the display battery died and now, it instantly turns off when I remove it from the cradle. It may still be under warranty, but I don't want to fool with looking up the paperwork just to find the warranty is expired, or ship the display unit out for service. I understand there was a batch of units shipped with a bad battery. I also understand there is a battery in the gateway that it prone to an early failure.

I understand they are soldered in, but that shouldn't be a problem. We have the technology. Has anyone replaced the battery in their display and/or gateway?
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charleync
Newbie
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Posts: 8


« Reply #1 on: December 11, 2011, 02:29:30 PM »

I have one of those displays with the bad battery. It never has worked right since I got it, and I just never took the time to RMA it. The batteries are solder in and has very tight clearance. If I remember correctly, they were LIR2032. This place sells them with tabs soldered on at www.batteryspace.com.
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charleync
Newbie
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Posts: 8


« Reply #2 on: January 01, 2012, 12:00:54 PM »

I replaced my display battery yesterday using a LIR2032 from batteryspace.com, and it works perfectly. I bought it with the tabs already attached to the battery. The tabs have a small hole at the end, and I just soldered the tab onto the circuit board by placing a drop of solder right through the hole. I soldered the negative tab first, then bent the tab over so the battery was close to its final position, and then soldered the positive tab. Very easy and works great!
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badbruno
Newbie
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Posts: 5


« Reply #3 on: January 10, 2012, 07:47:07 AM »

I seem to remember that TED has moved the battery charging wiring in the remote display on new units. After sending my unit in for the disply not being responive, I pulled the back cover to look things over and see if I could reset it by removing the power source. I compared it with a Second TED 5000 that I have a noticed that TED has moved the charging wire in the new units. Like "they" realzed the battery was not getting the correct voltage.. You should also look into it being another reason these ( poorly designed ) remotes dont work as described.
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gfrances
Newbie
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Posts: 1


« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2015, 02:39:31 AM »

I realize this is an old topic.  But, can anybody post a picture of where the wire is on the new units?  I replaced my battery and it worked until the new battery discharged.  It is apparently not getting the proper charging voltage.  TIA
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Support 4
Global Moderator
Newbie
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Posts: 12


« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2015, 10:50:15 PM »

Sure thing!  We have  had two types of batteries


On the Left  you have the LIR2032
The battery will just slide right in.

On the Right you have the LIR2032 that has soldering tabs
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bperrybap
Newbie
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Posts: 9


« Reply #6 on: February 02, 2016, 09:03:01 PM »

The unit on the right above looks like it could fit a LIR2450 which would give about 4X the battery life.
I'm surprised that the display unit used a LIR2032 instead of a LIR2450.
The added cost is negligible but the extra battery life is significant.
I was looking at swapping out my LIR2032 for a LIR2450 but my display unit has additional components just to the left of the power connector so it won't fit.

--- bill
« Last Edit: February 02, 2016, 09:06:47 PM by bperrybap » Logged
linuxturtle
Newbie
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Posts: 1


« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2016, 04:39:37 PM »

Yours looks a lot like mine, except for the wire going from the power connector, somewhere under the battery.  Where does it go?  Also, it looks like the right two connectors on the power receiver are connected by something, what is it?

Mine measures 4.25v at the battery when the power is on, so I don't think insufficient charging voltage is the problem.  I remember the original recall right after I bought mine, saying that the batteries were defective.  At the time, I didn't care, as it never left its cradle, so I never sent it in.  But now, it doesn't even work properly in the cradle, and acts like it's running out of power all the time (i.e. light flashes off & on, and the display eventually turns off, only to be revived by pushing the button).  I ordered a new battery for it, and will replace that, but if there's something wrong with the charging circuit that I can fix with a simple jumper wire, I'd like to do that Smiley.
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bperrybap
Newbie
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Posts: 9


« Reply #8 on: May 07, 2016, 02:57:53 PM »

Yours looks a lot like mine, except for the wire going from the power connector, somewhere under the battery.  Where does it go? 
It appears that the wire is just being used because the battery solder tabs on the battery don't line up with the PCB hole on the bottom.
The wire from the solder tab on the power connector (AC adapter -)  runs directly to the - of the battery.

Quote
Also, it looks like the right two connectors on the power receiver are connected by something, what is it?
The right two solder connections of the power connector are connected to the outer barrel of the  ac adapter connector. (-)
The left two solder connections are connected to the inner barrel of the ac adapter charge connector. (+)

Not sure where that trace goes. You'll have to look closer and look at the back of the board.
I haven't spent the time to track down all the traces of the power & charging circuitry to work up the charge circuit schematic.

Quote
Mine measures 4.25v at the battery when the power is on, so I don't think insufficient charging voltage is the problem.  I remember the original recall right after I bought mine, saying that the batteries were defective.  At the time, I didn't care, as it never left its cradle, so I never sent it in.  But now, it doesn't even work properly in the cradle, and acts like it's running out of power all the time (i.e. light flashes off & on, and the display eventually turns off, only to be revived by pushing the button).  I ordered a new battery for it, and will replace that, but if there's something wrong with the charging circuit that I can fix with a simple jumper wire, I'd like to do that Smiley.

My battery also reads 4.25v when the adapter is attached. (Raw voltage of the "7.5v" adapter is around 9v.)
I think the biggest issue is that the LIR2032 is inadequate for this purpose and there is no power switch.
The LIR2032 capacity is quite small particularly considering the backlight current. A LIR2450 would have been a better choice or even better a LiPo battery that has plenty of power.
And then with no power switch, the battery will potentially sit there with a draw on it while not in the cradle, like when new sitting in the box.
It is possible the f/w is trying to do something smart and turns off everything once a particular battery voltage threshold is reached to try to reduce the battery drain.
And maybe the battery simple can't provide enough current once the battery has a bit of wear on it so the voltage rapidly craters to the point where everything stops working.
No way of really knowing without doing some power analysis or unless TED provides some information about it.

--- bill
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Dimauro
Newbie
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Posts: 1


« Reply #9 on: July 19, 2017, 03:03:00 AM »

Not long after I got my TED 5000, the display battery died and now, it instantly turns off when I remove it from the cradle.

The exact same things is happening with my Ted 5000.  Shocked Oh well it was cheap anyway.
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RickyTerzis
Newbie
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Posts: 1


« Reply #10 on: September 29, 2017, 11:24:16 AM »

Hi..i am a new user here. In my case I replaced my display battery yesterday using a LIR2032 from batteryspace.com, and it works perfectly. I bought it with the tabs already attached to the battery. The tabs have a small hole at the end, and I just soldered the tab onto the circuit board by placing a drop of solder right through the hole.

pcb manfuacturing
« Last Edit: Today at 04:01:51 PM by RickyTerzis » Logged
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